Making a weapon

[shadowblade13]

Hello all I am new here. I have been in a LARP society before but not Belegarth. Therefore I am not 100% fresh with the rules. I want to make a Halberd (a polearm) for my weapon and it classifies as a class 3 I am sure but I'm not sure what the specific rules are for such a weapon as the website never went into details on such a weapon. since the halberd is both a thrusting and slashing weapon I'm not sure about the color of tape and some other restrictions on it. Also any advice on where to find materials to make it would be nice. I was thinking wood instead of PVC pipe (due to the fact PVC flexes at the longer lengths) and the website mentioned that wood weapon handles had to be covered in tape so I assume wood is an acceptable material. So a I guess a list of approved materials would help as well.

I was also considering a greatsword as well.

[Rowan of Rohan]

Alright, since I have learned a considerable amount in my many weapon-making ventures, allow me to impart as much knowledge as I can.

First of all, DON'T USE WOOD. I know it says wood handles are ok, but wood is extremely prone to breakage, and is very heavy. Especially if you want to build red (two-handed) weapons. Past a certain length, PVC will also fail flex - schedule 80 is firmer, but will still fail for weapons over 5-6 feet, depending on the thickness. I have several weapons that use 1" OD SCH 80 PVC for their cores that are just over 4 feet long, and barely pass for flex. If you want to make a two-handed weapon, your best bet would be Bandshoppe poles. Fiberglass Bandshoppe poles can purchased from Bandshoppe.com, under the "flags" section for ~15$. However, PVC will work for smaller weapons, although they won't last as long. If you absolutely HAVE to use PVC on a longer weapon, a trick I learned is to wrap the core up to the striking edge in strapping tape (clear tape with string in it). To do this, candy-cane the tape up the core one direction, and then the other, so you get a criss-crossed mesh. This only works on weapons with long handles and small heads.

As for the actual weapons, specifics can be found here: belegarth.com/rules.php#weapon . To mark a Halberd with both thrusting and slashing edges, you can wrap a single stripe each of green and red tape around the handle or pommel - assuming it passes. You have to get weapons checked by a realm's herald before it can be marked and used in battle. However, I would HIGHLY recommend you start off with a basic one-handed sword (tutorials: belegarth.com/begin.php?link=construction). Don't make the same mistake I did and try to tackle a complex weapon like a halberd as your first weapon - the Glaive I made as my first weapon failed flex miserably, and overall was pretty crap construction, essentially wasting a lot of expensive materials.

Besides the factor of complexity, (and I recommend this to EVERYONE in the realm, as many members are just starting out themselves), basic blue swords are also the best weapons to learn and practice on. Even with my 2+ years of experience, my skills are dwarfed by some of the people I fight, and using basic one-handed swords is one of the best ways to learn and get better. (Either double blue, or single blue and a shield, called Florentine and Sword&Board, respectively). If you have the materials for a shield, I recommend you build a shield as well, and go with sword&board. If you have a fair amount of experience already, feel free to try Florentine, but keep in mind that Florentine, any non-sword blues, and any reds, are going to be trickier to use, and you will not get very good with them. Trust me, I know from personal experience - you can't be good with a big red until you're REALLY good with a blue.

When you're purchasing materials, most of your materials can be purchased from Wal-mart, and PVC and strapping tape can be purchased from Menards. Bandshoppe poles and any non-pvc cores will likely have to be purchased online. I personally use 1" PVC, however I'd recommend using either 3/4" or 1/2" PVC. The handles will be a little small, but you can wrap the handle in thin rope and athletic tape to create a respectable, comfortable handle. Having too small of a handle will give you a bad grip on the weapon, and you'll end up with a broken thumb like me. For foam, you can use blue camp pads from walmart. They look a little like this: geddon.org/images/thumb/f/f4/Bluefoam.JPG/180px-Bluefoam.JPG . DO NOT get the egg crate version. It will not work. Period. the one you want will be a lighter blue, flat, and have a brown paper ring around the center, wrapped all in plastic. This will be the standard "blue foam" used in 90% of your weapon. From walmart, you will also need to buy plain fabric to make weapon covers with, as well as sewing needles and thread. You will also need thin nylon rope and athletic tape, as mentioned before, for your handles. (I typically wrap the handle and pommel in athletic tape.)

The single most important thing to buy is a good glue - I use 3M Super 77, Scotch brand. It can be found in the craft/fabric department, and comes in a white/red bottle with a purple cap. You will also need Duck tape (hardware section - I typically get the medium strength), but Duck tape is more for support than actual construction. Too much Duck tape will weigh down your weapon, causing it to be slow and fail flex tests. My Glaive bent a full 90 degrees for flex, which is absurd. When using Super 77, make sure to spray evenly, and only apply a thin coat. Maybe one or two passes, from several inches away. If it pools, you're using too much. Wait 30 seconds-2 minutes until the glue is tacky, and doesn't come away wet when touched, then carefully align and attach the foam pieces. Once attached, don't try to move or remove the pieces, or it will weaken the bond. Another important thing to remember is that you need to lightly sand the core. If you're using PVC, sand it just enough to make it slightly rough, but be careful not to take away the finish. This will dramatically improve your bonds to the core and keep your weapon from breaking apart. I had a hammer where the head flew clean off the first time I brought it into combat because it wasn't securely attached.

A few other tips: when building any weapon, you have to "cap" both ends of your core. This can be done by gluing/taping down a coin, or a small circular piece of foam, and completely covering the cap in duck tape. This will improve the longevity of your weapon and make it far less likely to come apart. If a herald finds out you haven't capped your weapons, it may not pass. If you want to build a stabbing tip, there's a couple ways to do it. I use polyurethane from Foam factory (http://www.foamdistributing.com/polyurethane-foam-sheets.html). Avoid using the Super Soft, try to get a higher-density foam than that. I'm still experimenting to find a proper density. If you do get Super Soft, you have to put a layer of blue foam over the tip and down the sides of the weapon, or it will fail, guaranteed. You can also use yoga mats from walmart, although those can be extremely expensive.

I think that's all I have for now. Kids, stay in school, don't do drugs. If you have any more questions let me know, I'll be happy to dump another wall of text.